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When it comes to the business end of a router bit, the cutting edges or teeth, most bits these days should be made of at minimum high-speed steel (or HSS for short) but if you can always go with carbide-tipped bits. The chamfer or bevel cutting bit is commonly used for shaping the edges of objects such as book shelves, work tops and table tops and any other object where a sharp 90° edge needs to be removed. The final main element of a router bit is the bearing guide that normally features at the base or tip of a bit but can sometimes appear at the top.
What I actually did as a test was to make multiple passes across the table saw blade at a height I thought was right for the extra 6mm or so... this didn't leave something as neat as I wanted and I needed to clean up with a chisel. Next time (this weekend) I'll probably try the 2 cuts on the table saw method. As with chamfer bits, it’s generally used on the edges of shelves, tabletop and cabinet edges the arms of chairs and any other area that requires a smooth edge. You can cut dadoes, grooves and rabbets in many different ways. In this article, however, we’re going to show you a simple, foolproof cutting method that requires only a router, a pattern bit and two straight guides.The edge cutting bit is again commonly used in cabinet and furniture making for cutting and creating decorative edges, sometimes known as beads in cabinet and table tops, chair and table legs and many other different objects and surfaces. If you are fairly keen on carpentry and joinery, the router is one of the best power tools you can have in your tools arsenal as it can be used for a huge variety of jobs from cutting hinge recesses, mitering worktops, trimming and shaping edges to cutting a whole variety of timber joints. Attractive: You can place the seam where it isn’t visible — say, under a countertop — and the fasteners can be hidden with filler or made from doweling. Flush trim bits come in a variety of cutting arm lengths and diameters, but the most common are ½-inch diameter by a 1-inch length with a ¼-inch shank. As with all other bits that produce accurate cuts, the rounding bit also includes a bearing guide at the base that is also used to control the depth of cut. Due to this rounding bits also normally include a range of different sized bearings that can be swapped out depending on the depth of cut required.
The straight cutting router bit is arguably the most commonly used type of router bit. As the name suggests it’s used for cutting straight cuts with a flat base e.g. the channels at the side of drawers that the drawer bottom sits in and certain timber joints such as a lapped joint.
Rabbet joints make strong corners. They're easy to build and useful in cabinets, drawers and other box-like structures.
Due to the nature of a bearing and it’s very smooth rotation, this helps to avoid the router bit juddering or jumping around, keeping any cuts dead straight and accurate to the surface you are working on. A rabbet joint is stronger than a butt joint for two reasons. The rabbet increases the amount of surface area available for glue. And when a piece of wood fits tightly into a rabbet, the vertical side of the groove prevents it from leaning in that direction and breaking the joint. Very similar to a chamfer cutting bit, the rounding over router bit is generally used to round off sharp and acute edges to leave a nice smooth and rounded one.
More often than not, these are generally shaping or moulding bits that are used to create specialist moulding’s and shapes, sometimes two in a single pass. Rabbet or shoulder joints are a common type of joint used when making furniture, specifically for building drawers and joining together cabinet framework.
These bits come in two forms: single and double. Single rounding-overs create their profile on a single edge, producing a quarter-round effect. The double rounding-overs bits cut the bottom and top edge simultaneously, making a full half-round profile. You can also cut rabbets with a table-mounted or handheld router and a rabbeting bit. This type of bit features an extrusion that forms the tongue of the rabbet, and a bearing on the end to prevent the bit from digging more deeply than the length of that extrusion.
They’re available in cut diameters ranging from 3/16-inch to 1½ inches and have either one or two ‘flutes’ (cutting arms) depending on how large or fine of a cut you need. Most routers these days come with interchangeable 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch collets so you can swap between the different sizes if needed, however this isn’t always the case with the smaller palm routers as most only take the 1/4 inch shanks. A lot of timber we buy over here is 19mm, isn't it? How best do we cut a rabbet that's 19mm wide by some depth? I'd have thought a router bit was the way to go. As the bit is also non-guided e.g. it does not feature a bearing it can also be used to great effect for hollowing out objects.What distinguishes these bits from others (like a straight bit used for rabbeting) is the addition of a circular pilot bearing at the bit’s tip that acts like a spinning wheel riding along the edge of the piece being cut, guiding the cutting arm to the perfect depth. As a result, the width of the cut is determined by the size of the bearing, with a smaller bearing producing a wider cut. The most common sizes of rabbet bits are 1¼ inches and 1⅜ inches, and most bits come with several interchangeable bearings ranging from ⅜-inch to 1⅛ inches. Synopsis: Decide what’s more important — the tongue or the shoulder — and you will know the best method to use for cutting a particular rabbet. Despite the simplicity of the joint, it’s not as cut and dried as it seems. Sometimes a tablesaw and dado blade is the best method; other times, you’ll want to turn to the router table. Due to this if the profiles are cut the same then essentially a rounded off joint will fit into a cove-cut joint. Not only is it used for cutting channels it can also be used for creating decorative effects in wooden panels such as doors, table edges and other similar objects. Flush trim bits are essentially straight bits with a pilot bearing that’s the same diameter as the flutes. The bearing at the tip guides the cutting arm perfectly around the edge of a surface, allowing you to trim overhanging material perfectly flush. You can use this for shelf edging, veneer trimming, or to smoothly join edges. They’re also great for duplicating curved patterns from a template. For trimming purposes, these bits can be used in a hand-held router, but a table-mounted router is best used when replicating patterns with a template.
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